![]() Often I'd give it a few revolutions to displace the assembly lube first, I'm kinda generous with the stuff. We have also adjusted the Keeper grove to properly balance intake and exhaust spring pressures to reduce the use of valve spring shims and maximize performance. On this year with the shims without whatever the dealer tool is was the only way that made sense to me.Īlso doing it this way there is no compression so it's very easy to hold the cam sprocket and move it back and forth. ![]() First couple sets of heads I checked again for kicks when they were in the car (just threw the valve covers on without gaskets or old gaskets to make sure no damage or dirt on engine install). I seem to do a lot of 97's and this is the method I'd use. Depending on how far the engine is to be (or is) torn down will dictate how I go about doing the valve adjust. Mine rarely need adjusting at the 3000-mile check-ups when using 0.004. IMO there's no right or wrong way to do it as long as the adjustment ends up correct. It's much easier to install a cam sprocket and bolt and turn the cam till each cam lobe is relaxed and then check your clearances, etc. To each their own I guess but that's my habit from doing the bucket/shim heads. Well - I always setup all the valves before I install the heads.
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